The temperatures we fear seeing on our gauges and in theory are strictly a result of water's boiling point, nothing else. There isn't a specific temperature at which the metal parts in our engines will fail, at least, it isn't in the 200-240 degree range. As far as physics goes, no boiling = working as intended, even at slightly elevated temperatures. So we need to look at how we define overheating in our cars and why it is or isn't dangerous. The waterless stuff continues to work at 350 degrees, probably 100 degrees hotter than any car can possible make the coolant. The point that the waterless coolant guys are making is that the margin between operating temperature and failure with water/anti-freeze is very slim, on the order of 15-20 degrees. We need to examine what we're worried about-an arbitrary number on a gauge or the actual boiling of the coolant where it has lost its ability to absorb any more heat and the efficiency of the system is reduced? If the coolant isn't boiling, it can continue to absorb heat until the radiator can no longer reject it, and even on old cars, the radiators can remove A LOT of heat. But does this count as overheating? I don't know, but I don't think so.
The temperatures we see with water/anti-freeze are the coolant temperature, and from the physics of the coolant itself, it seems that the waterless has more surface area contact with the hot metal, therefore it will absorb more heat, which is reflected in slightly higher operating temperatures. But since it has the capacity to hold that heat without boiling, there isn't a problem. Basically, more heat is being transferred to the coolant than we're used to, therefore, it gets hotter. I read all the theory on the stuff, and it does say that while the overall temperature may go up, the actual amount of cooling being done to vital parts is greater. I think it's ideal for our cars that are stored for long periods.įrom what I've read, the engines may run warmer. I did a lot of reading about the waterless coolants and am interested in using it myself.
If you object, I will just start a whole new thread, but I didn't want to see some of this information go to waste. I hope you don't mind that it looks like you started this thread, but I'm interested in knowing more about it. I've reposted this thread on waterless coolant because the original was deleted.
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